North Korea up close

Earlier this year, seasoned traveller John Barr and iphone toting 20-something, Amy Goodhew took the journey into the relative unknown of North Korea. They visited an orphanage, child care centre and computer school – the result of passionate Korean congregations committed to partnering with UnitingWorld to touch their historical homeland. Here, we see the initial impressions of North Korea through the eyes of two generations…

Baby boomer perspective: John Barr

I have been to North Korea once before. What most impacts me is the sheer sense of isolation that you get. Many people seem to be so unaware of what is happening in the rest of the world. It feels as though you have stepped into a time warp where things have kind of stopped. It reminds me of life in the 1950’s when I was a young kid. I must admit that taking Amy was a big step. The political scene seemed to be pretty quiet but all of a sudden things erupted. The day before we left we had a frank conversation and I said to her, “Look if you don’t feel comfortable you just stay here”. I was worried about her reacting to the tight restrictions that were on us. In the end she handled it really well.

I did find the restrictions on us hard to take and it would be difficult to exist in a situation like that for very long. We were constantly monitored and everything was carefully planned. Riding over the bridge into China there is this great sense of relief. I can go to the bathroom without having to check with my guards!

There is a lot of need in North Korea. The government has put resources into nuclear technology and maintaining a huge army. There are obviously very few resources available for basic social services and caring for those who are poor. UnitingWorld’s work really does address the needs of the most disadvantaged. It is two years since I was last there and you can see how the kids have grown. The computer school is giving them a chance, it is actually achieving results.

It was really the vision of a Korean congregation in Melbourne that got this project moving. They asked us to work with them and make it into a national project. It’s a huge commitment, but a really nice example of how a national agency and a local congregation can work together.

One of my really big hopes is that our presence and participation with these projects will help to break down the huge gap between North Korea and the rest of the world. The nuclear program they have adopted is basically another way of trying to get the world’s attention.

I really believe that the North Korean experience will be similar to East Germany. The barriers will come down and reunification between North Korea and South Korea will, hopefully, happen. The projects we are involved with are very much part of that process.

Gen Y perspective: Amy Goodhew

I wasn’t sure what to expect, the country was unknowable. We were entering at a time of heightened tensions between North Korea and the rest of the world and I was expecting difficult circumstances and heavy restrictions on our movements.

It was a beautiful day when we drove in and the roads were lined with blossoming trees and the fields full of workers in the rice paddy. It looked like every idealistic scene I had ever dreamed about rural Asia. It was intimidating crossing over the border but once we reached the customs building we were greeted with smiles.

The hotel lobby was adorned with a mural of the Dear Leader and Kim Jong Il and my curtain-less bathroom looked out into the main square. The taps ran with dirty water and we had about one hour of hot water a day. No showers for me then! Despite this I was acutely aware that they had provided us with excellent accommodation compared to what most of the population lives in. The streets were dirt for the most part and the buildings were large concrete blocks. People squatted in the road to chat to comrades or to rest. Some smiled and bowed as we passed while others scowled from the shadows.

We were accompanied 24 hours a day and watched closely at all times. That famous khaki uniform filled the streets. It was impossible to completely relax but I was thrilled to have a warm reception and deeply touched by the proud and hard-working spirit of those I met.

John was my safety net. I looked to him for guidance on how to behave and interpret what I experienced. As long as John felt we were safe, I felt comforted.

Our mission co-workers for the project, Mr and Mrs Hong, are an inspiration. Their warmth and dedication to the project has seen it grow far beyond the original orphanage project. They now serve the whole community. I met the head doctor for the TB clinics and later found out that lacking proper medical equipment, she uses her own mouth to draw out fluid blocking the lungs of patients. She does this knowing that it may lead to her death. I was completely floored by that kind of dedication and self sacrifice.

I’m an idealist so I’d like to hope that North Korea could open up like China has done. I hope the North will give up its nuclear program in return for aid and security guarantees and its people will enjoy the freedoms and services that those in the South have. The potential of the Korean people is limitless.